Chains & Chainsaw Accessories
Chain saw blade options for clean, fast cutting without burning out your saw or your arms.
When a chainsaw starts pulling to one side, throwing dust instead of chips, or needing constant pressure, the chain is done. A proper chain saw blade restores bite, keeps cuts straight, and stops you cooking bars and clutches. Match the pitch, gauge, and drive links to your saw, then choose the right tooth type for timber, firewood, or site clearance.
What Jobs Are Chain Saw Blades Best At?
- Cutting firewood and log lengths cleanly when you need chips out the cut and a chain that feeds without you leaning on the saw.
- Sectioning fallen limbs and site clearance timber where a sharp chain saw blade saves time and reduces kickback risk from snagging.
- Felling and snedding on rough ground where the right chain profile keeps the cut moving even when the timber is dirty or knotty.
- Pruning and breakdown work where a correctly sized chain stops overworking the motor and helps you keep control on awkward angles.
- Getting a tired saw cutting like it should again when the bar is fine but the chain is stretched, blunted, or cutting in a curve.
Choosing the Right Chain Saw Blade
Sorting the right chain is simple: match it to your bar and saw specs first, then pick the cutter style for the timber you actually cut.
1. Pitch and gauge (do not guess)
If the pitch or gauge is wrong, it will not run right and you will chew the bar and sprocket. Check the markings on the bar, your old chain packaging, or the saw manual and match them exactly.
2. Drive link count (it must match your bar length)
If the drive links are short, you will not get it on; if they are long, you will not tension it safely. Count the drive links on your current chain or use the number stamped on the bar to buy the correct loop.
3. Cutter type for the work
If you are cutting mostly clean softwood and want speed, a more aggressive cutter profile makes sense. If you are in dirty bark, mixed timber, or you are not sharpening every five minutes, go for a tougher, more forgiving chain that stays controllable.
4. Keep two chains, not one
If you are working all day, carry a spare chain saw blade and swap when it dulls. It is quicker and safer than forcing a blunt chain, and you can sharpen both properly back at the bench.
Who Are These For on Site?
- Tree surgeons and landscapers who need a professional chain saw blade that holds an edge through long days of felling, snedding, and logging up.
- Groundworkers and site clearance teams cutting roots, stakes, and timber down for muck-away, where a spare chain in the box keeps the job moving.
- Farm and estate maintenance crews doing regular firewood and storm damage work, swapping chains to suit bar length and timber type.
- Builders and joiners doing occasional outdoor cut-downs who want the correct pitch and gauge so the saw cuts straight without fighting it.
The Basics: Understanding Chain Saw Blade Sizing
Chains are not one-size-fits-all. Get these three details right and the chain will tension properly, cut straight, and stop wrecking bars and sprockets.
1. Pitch
Pitch is the spacing of the chain and must match the drive sprocket and bar nose. If it is wrong, the chain will not mesh properly and it will wear fast or run dangerously.
2. Gauge
Gauge is the thickness of the drive links that sit in the bar groove. Too thin and it will wobble and cut wonky; too thick and it will bind and overheat.
3. Drive links
Drive link count is what sets the chain length for your bar. Match the number exactly so you can tension it correctly and keep the chain seated when you are working hard.
Chainsaw Accessories That Keep You Cutting
A new chain is only half the story; the right add-ons stop downtime, bad cuts, and premature wear.
1. Round files and filing guides
This saves you from guessing angles and ending up with a chain that cuts in a curve. A guide keeps the teeth consistent so the saw feeds properly instead of you forcing it through.
2. Depth gauge tool and flat file
If the rakers are too high after a few sharpens, the chain will just polish the wood and throw dust. A depth gauge tool lets you set them right so the cutters actually bite again.
3. Bar and chain oil
Run short on oil and you will cook a bar quickly, especially in dry timber or long cuts. Keep a bottle in the van so you are not tempted to "just finish this last cut" on a dry chain.
4. Spare guide bar
If your bar rails are worn or the nose sprocket is rough, even a new professional chain saw blade will feel poor. A fresh bar brings the whole cutting setup back into line.
Why Shop for Chain Saw Blades at ITS?
Whether you need a like-for-like replacement chain saw blade or you are stocking up with a few sizes for different bars and saws, we have the range to cover it. It is all held in our own warehouse, in stock and ready for next day delivery so you are not losing a day waiting to get cutting again.
Chain Saw Blade FAQs
How do I know which chain to buy for my chainsaw?
Match three things exactly: pitch, gauge, and drive link count. The quickest check is the markings stamped on your guide bar, or count the drive links on your existing chain and match the pitch and gauge from the bar spec or manual.
Is it cheaper to sharpen or replace a chain?
Sharpening is cheaper if the chain is just blunt and the cutters still have life in them, especially if you are doing regular touch-ups. Replace it when it is stretched, the cutters are filed back to stubs, it will not hold tension, or it has hit stone or metal and you cannot get all teeth back even.
Can you buy a new chain for a chainsaw?
Yes, and it is normal to treat chains as consumables. Just make sure the new chain matches the bar and sprocket spec, then tension it correctly and run it in gently for the first few cuts with plenty of oil.
How much is a chain for a chainsaw?
It depends on the size and spec, mainly the bar length, pitch, gauge, and the chain type. Bigger bars and tougher chain types cost more, so price it by matching your exact spec first rather than buying "close enough" and ending up with a chain that wears out fast.
Do I need a professional chain saw blade for occasional work?
If you are only cutting a bit of firewood now and then, a standard chain is fine as long as it is the right size and kept sharp. If you are cutting weekly, working in dirty timber, or you cannot afford downtime, a professional chain saw blade is worth it because it holds its edge longer and stays more consistent through the cut.
